Galata Nights

• PHOTOS

This 3-hour evening tour of Istanbul explores city's vibrant port culture where the Genoese, Byzantine, Russian, Ottoman, and Turkish Republic past resonate in present-day Istanbul. Strolling from the banks of Karaköy to Pera Palace Hotel, we'll look at the role of commerce, trade, crime, entertainment, and refuge on the history and development of these districts regarded for its mixed religious, ethnic, and port populations. And we'll do it at dusk, a particularly beautiful time in Istanbul where a pinkish hue combines with the sound of seagulls and swallows in circular flight as well as marking a distinct shift in how to think about a city from the bustle of daily business to the leisure and potential intrigues of night activities.

Our walk begins along the banks of Karaköy providing a perfect atmosphere to recreate images and events of the port. We then meander from various religious sites (Russian Orthodox Church, Yeraltı Camii, Surp Krior Lusarovich Armenian Orthodox Church) to t

This 3-hour evening tour of Istanbul explores city's vibrant port culture where the Genoese, Byzantine, Russian, Ottoman, and Turkish Republic past resonate in present-day Istanbul. Strolling from the banks of Karaköy to Pera Palace Hotel, we'll look at the role of commerce, trade, crime, entertainment, and refuge on the history and development of these districts regarded for its mixed religious, ethnic, and port populations. And we'll do it at dusk, a particularly beautiful time in Istanbul where a pinkish hue combines with the sound of seagulls and swallows in circular flight as well as marking a distinct shift in how to think about a city from the bustle of daily business to the leisure and potential intrigues of night activities.

Our walk begins along the banks of Karaköy providing a perfect atmosphere to recreate images and events of the port. We then meander from various religious sites (Russian Orthodox Church, Yeraltı Camii, Surp Krior Lusarovich Armenian Orthodox Church) to the 19th century commercial and economic center, Bankalar Caddesi (Avenue of Banks). Lined with Neo-Classical and Art Nouveau styled buildings, we specifically take note of the Ottoman Bank and Kamondo Staircase considering the role of these economic examples on the growth of the city toward Beyolu. Next we stroll up to the Cenevizli Ev (Genoese House) and the Galata House or “Old British Jail”, two sites which contrast the 14th century past with the realities of a port populated with seamen, sailors, prostitutes, and tavern owners of different nationalities.

At this point, dusk is waning as we proceed through the streets of Galata to the tower. Once known for its rather unruly Greek-owned taverns, its newly opened restaurants, provide not only a focal point for dining and entertainment in the quarter but also a sharp contrast to its past. Our final leg takes us alongside the monumental Art Nouveau Frej Apartment (1906) to Merutiyet Caddesi and onward to Asmalı Mescit. From the late-19th century until the present, these streets were known for luxurious hotels and second-rate taverns and pensions. These two streets intersect at the point of the renowned Pera Palace and the location of the once hopping Garden Bar where the idea of port and leisure come full circle.

We'll conclude with recommendations for dinner at any one of the various meyhanes (taverns) along Asmalı Mescit or Sofyalı Sokak.

Note:
Women should bring a scarf in case we are able to enter Yeraltı Camii.