Nothing captures the urban pulse of Berlin like Kreuzberg. Once a forgotten corner of West Berlin, this neighborhood has transformed itself into an energetic hub of counterculture and creativity—but there’s much more to this alternative quarter than just buzzing nightlife. On this three-hour alternative walking tour of Berlin—a Kreuzberg tour with a local historian—we'll encounter the ever-changing identity of this area and explore how the city battles to stay off-beat in the face of gentrification.

When arriving in Kreuzberg, the international character of the area is immediately obvious. We'll begin the walk by discussing the immigrant workers who were invited to fill the void in Berlin’s workforce after the end of World War II, and who created the multi-cultural ambience felt in the neighborhood to this day. Walking along the canal banks of the Maybachufer, the site of the popular Turkish market, we’ll see vividly how that community has planted deep roots in the area over many decades.

The other side of Kreuzberg’s story is its strong connection with the counterculture. The neighborhood has historically been home to a generation of '68 anti-war draft dodgers, poets, pop stars, and performance artists. Iggy Pop and David Bowie hung out here, Yoko Ono and Joseph Beuys held Fluxus happenings, and the area became a laboratory for hippie culture and alternative movements. We may visit the famous food stands at Markthalle IX food market, and the Künstlerhaus Bethanien, a former hospital also reclaimed as an art hub. Along the way, we’ll also step sideways into the courtyards and gathering places of Kreuzberg’s diverse communities.

Kreuzberg finds itself smack in the middle of the German capital, trying to hold off gentrification and conformity. As Berlin continues to evolve and grow, its counterculture is becoming more attractive to tourists, which poses a challenge for the alternative scene trying to stay true to its early values. Our visit to Kreuzberg focuses on introducing this vibrant neighborhood to visitors without resorting to voyeurism or sugarcoating. Instead, we’ll come away with an understanding of what makes the city tick by going straight to the spots where Berlin’s radical heart still beats.

What's the best day of the week to take this tour?
We find that Tuesdays and Fridays are the best options because the fantastic Turkish market on Maybachufer is open and can be included on the tour route.

Does this walk include a visit to any of the art galleries?
During the tour, you can see some examples of street art and visit Bethanien cultural center, but for those who are interested in art, we would recommend doing the Berlin art scene tour.