Edinburgh Darkside Tour: Witches, Hauntings and Body Snatchers

Edinburgh is haunted. Few cities boast such an entanglement with witches, the macabre, and the supernatural. The birthplace of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, in Edinburgh, as literary son Robert Louis Stevenson once said, “Only a few inches separate the living from the dead.” In fact, an 1842 article boasted that Scotland was "more infested with ghosts than any other part of Europe," adding that these ghosts were uglier, rowdier, and all-round more horrible than ghosts from any other nation. This Edinburgh Darkside walking tour explores the dark history of Scottish stories, using Edinburgh’s Old Town as a backdrop. Not only will we explore this history of the supernatural in Scotland, but we'll learn a bit more about Scottish identity and history, using the critical lens of ghost stories as a means of better understanding this fascinating city.

Our exploration begins at St Giles’ Cathedral, the religious and philosophical heart of Edinburgh, where we’ll delve into the dramatic Reformation era when Scotland transitioned from Catholicism to Calvinism and ghosts were deemed unorthodox. We’ll discuss key ghost stories linked to the Cathedral, the later rehabilitation of ghostly tales for religious propaganda, and the famous haunted Mary King’s Close. Along the Royal Mile, we’ll trace the path to Edinburgh Castle, examining the philosophical shifts of the Scottish Enlightenment and how they diminished belief in the supernatural.

At Edinburgh Castle and beyond, we’ll uncover the evolution of ghosts in Scottish lore, from zombie-like revenants to ethereal spirits, using original texts and illustrations. Visits to the Grassmarket and Greyfriars Kirkyard will highlight chilling tales, including the ghostly legends of Major Thomas Weir and George Mackenzie. At the National Museum of Scotland, we’ll examine artifacts like the Arthur’s Seat coffins and a ‘witch’s bridle,’ reflecting Scotland’s supernatural history. With engaging stories, thought-provoking discussions, and moments to reflect, this tour offers a vivid journey into Scotland’s haunted past and its cultural significance.